KSL Classifieds and Facebook Marketplace are where a lot of Utah used cars change hands. Private sales can be a great deal. They can also be someone else’s problem with a fresh wash. Here’s what to check, and when to get a mechanic involved.
Before you go
- Run the VIN. A vehicle history report shows reported accidents, title problems and mileage records.
- Check recalls. Look up open recalls on NHTSA’s website with the VIN.
- Ask why they’re selling. Then ask for maintenance records.
- Ask for it cold. Tell the seller not to start the car before you arrive. Cold starts reveal a lot.
At the car: your own walkaround
- Under the hood: fresh leaks, burnt-smelling oil, milky oil on the dipstick or cap, low or dirty coolant.
- Under the car: drips, heavy rust (common with Utah road salt), damaged exhaust.
- Tires: uneven wear can mean alignment or suspension problems.
- Inside: water stains, musty smell or silt under the carpet can mean flood damage.
- Dash: every warning light should come on with the key and then go off. If the check engine light never lights up at all, be suspicious.
The test drive
- Does it start easily and idle smoothly?
- Smooth shifts, no slipping or flaring between gears?
- Straight braking, no shaking or grinding? See squealing vs grinding brakes.
- Clunks over bumps?
- Heat and AC both work?
Red flags
- The seller won’t allow an inspection
- Codes were cleared right before you arrived (a scan tool can often show this)
- “It just needs a small fix,” usually an expensive one
- Title isn’t in the seller’s name
Get a pre-purchase inspection
A mechanic with a scan tool sees what a walkaround can’t: stored and pending codes, signs of recently cleared codes, and how the engine and transmission actually behave. You walk away with a list of what needs work now, what can wait, and a reason to negotiate or walk.
Utah Roadrunner does pre-purchase inspections at the seller’s place anywhere in Tooele County. If the numbers don’t add up, read repair or replace.